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PINOT NOIR

A sensitive grape that prefers a cooler climate than cabernet or merlot, pinot noir produces a wine that is lighter in color but can still be satisfying and full-bodied. The best pinots are noted for their intense aromas and surprising complexity.

Wines reviewed to date:

1. G. Graham (Carneros, California) Pinot Noir, 1992
2. Livingstone Cellars Gallo Premium Select Burgundy (no year on label, bought 6/97)
3. Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley, 1993
4. Pepperwood Grove (California) Pinot Noir, 1993
5. Porter Creek Hillside, 1992
6. Robert Mondavi (Napa Valley) 25th Anniversary Pinot Noir (unfiltered), 1992
7. Thomas Family Winery Pinot Noir, 1995

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• Dates Consumed: 04/97
• Price: $9.50 ($8 at End-O-Bin)
• Alcohol 12.8%

• SD: Appearance: beautiful rose clarity. Bright cherry nose! Light bodied but tasty. Fruity style almost beaujolais in character, but a hint of tannins to give it a backbone. B-

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• Dates Consumed: 01/01/96
• Price: $22
• Alcohol 12.3%

• BW: This dusty-dry pinot is complex and serious. It smells of truffles, or maybe ozone. Flavors ricochet from front to rear of the mouth and back again, which is neat, but the flavors aren't what they could be. It's devoid of berries. Try it if you want to challenge your taste buds. B-
• SD: Brownish tint. Jarring nose of vinegar and wine-gone-bad near the pinot-soaked cork: a bad sign for a bottle this expensive. This is a classic Cliff Frohlich "explodes-in-your-mouth" pinot: a full frontal assault that leaves one momentarily stunned, wondering whether to admire the strength or chalk the experience off to a wine gone sour. After some reflection: the acididty is a little overbalancing, but this wine is still drinkable. Sharp and flat, smooth and ragged: is this complexity or psychosis? I'm edging the Porter Creek Pinot into the 'B' category for being one of the most interesting and thought-provoking wines I've had in a very long time. However, I'm not sure if I like it more than a little. B-

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